From
the earliest times, the two predominant garments worn in Ireland, were
the Léine (pronounced Layna) and the Brat (pronounced Brat/Brot).
The Léine was an ankle length linen tunic nearly always of a
yellowish colour, hence the term 'saffron shirt', much used by various
late medieval English commentators. A most ancient of garment, the Léine
is recorded in our earliest texts (8th century, but believed to have
been copied from even earlier sources), down to the early 1600's. Through
these many centuries, the only significant change occurred in the early
1400's when the large and long 'hanging sleeves' formed part of the
garment. These distinctive sleeves lasted until the end of the Léine
in the early to mid-1600's.
As a
partner to the Léine, the Brat was just as old. There is some
confusion over the shape of the Brat in its earliest days. It was most
likely of a rectangular shape and slowly evolved into its unique semi-circular
shape by the time of the Norman invasion. It was confused with another
early style of mantle called a Lumman, but this died out early and does
not figure in later traditional Gaelic attire. The Brat featured decorative
fringing all around its border. The straight edge was the part worn
over the shoulders and this area that concentrated around the head and
shoulders had extra rows of fringing and usually longer. This added
warmth to that part of the body. When pulled over the head during times
of rain, the fringing hangs down in front and keeps the rain off the
face.
While
the Léine and Brat were the standard items of clothing for the
Gaels, they also wore trews (Gaelic Triúbhas, pronounced as the
English word). These Triúbhas were tight fitting from the foot
to the mid-thigh. Above this was a seperate, looser piece of cloth,
often of a different colour. The lower, tighter section was often made
of a simple check or tartan.
Over
time, two more garments were added to the ensemble, the Ionar and the
Cóta Mór. The Ionar (pronounced inner) was a unique Irish
style of jerkin made very short and with sleeves open on the underside.
These open sleeves were to allow the large hanging sleeve of the Léine
to fall through. The sleeves of the Ionar served no other purpose but
as decoration. The lower half of the Ionar contained pleating or lappets
all around. This added to the decorative appeal. The jacket body and
sleeves were decorated with lines of piping or fringing, sometimes both.
The most decorative ones has medieval style foliage instead with a mere
hint of what is termed 'Celtic' decoration. It also appears on occasion,
with a small stand-up collar. The Ionar came in a variety of colours.
The Cóta Mór (pronounced coata moar) is rendered in English
as Great Coat or Big Coat. The Cóta Mór reached to about
the knees and also had the open sleeve design to accomodate the hanging
sleeves of the Léine. It was used in winter time instead of the
Ionar. The open sleeve of the Cóta Mór was a little different
in that the opening was not underneath but at the back of the arm. In
this way, it gave more protection to the wearer in cold or windy weather.
The skirt of the coat often had gores added for the benefit of the pleated
skirt of the Léine.
There
can be no doubt that the Léine and the Brat have formed the core
elements of Gaelic attire, for men, women and children. The Léine
should always be of a yellowish colour or various shades from white,
buff, oatmeal, cream and brownish yellows. Although many of these colours/shades
can be attractive, the aim was to achieve, if possible, a pure bright
yellow. The Brat on the other hand could be any colour including stripes,
checks and tartan. The sewn on fringing of the Brat was more often than
not of a different colour or multicoloured.
For
hundreds of years the English sought to rid Ireland of these 'barbarous
fashions' by bringing in many laws againgst them. The English hatred
of all things Irish finally won when the Léine was slowly sqeezed
of its life in the early 1600's and replaced by English attire.
It should
be clearly noted herein, and fully understood, that while the Irish
have always worn tartan, they never wore kilts. Any checks or tartans
used in Ireland adorned the Brat and the Trews only. Occasionally, simple
checks were used as minor decoration on the Ionar. Kilts are purely
Scottish and even then, of a late introduction. Kilts, as they are known
today were first recorded in Scotland in the early 1700's. They derive
from the earlier Belted Plaid, itself a simple adaptation of the ancient
Brat.
SCOTTISH
HIGHLAND WEAR
The Highlanders
are known the world over for their tartan kilts, but these garments
did not exist before the 1700's. Before that they wore the Belted Plaid,
or Great Kilt for no more than 100 years. Prior to about the year 1600,
the Scottish Highlanders wore the same garments as their Gaelic brothers
and sisters in Ireland.
